Bazaar!

I'm cheating with pictures- this is the spice bazaar a few days later, but i somehow managed to feel hassled enough to not take pictures in the bazaar.

Bazaar! we certainly didn't see all 5,480 shops today, but a huge number - predating malls or even the passages, the 500 year aged warren of commerce was an exercise in avoiding the appearance of interest while gawking profusely. fun time though, too much stuff, too much a tourist trap, lots of heckling. "yes please" you heard all the time, a few wits "let me help you buy something you don't need" but not enough creativity in selling or merchandise.

too many repetitions of things to see there - excess of jewelry, clothes, shoes, wood boxes, eyes (a cool istanbul phenomenon, handmade glass trinkets seen in every store and restaurant, didn't get to check private homes, but the idea was that these artificial eyes would ward off the evil eye from unwellmeaning people), jackets - all the stores seemed the same, quickly. the hecklers were more fun after the mental callouses to brushing them off had formed.

dragging ourselves away from the stimulation and coveted items, we were cajoled into a rug shop on the way back to the hostel. tony was more seriously interested, but it was a fun demonstration regardless. the salesman was fairly smooth, but seemed a little uncomfortable. his 'i will show you a magic carpet' line was kind of silly, implied scoffing, but he brought out a small silk rug and the difference between direction, helped out by his practiced spin, was pretty beautiful and amazing. it was hard to define the difference, one side was definitely darker then the other, but the wish for the carpet to keep spinning so you could put more of a finger on it was very real. it also worked on the larger carpets, less dramatically then the just-silk though. amazing amounts of work in these, and very expensive, and they should have been i guess. would have been lovely.... so soft and so expensive in the states and so dramatic... fun.

supper at buhara with the expressive waiter, wandered to the pudding shop, apparently a famous landmark, kind of just a restaurant there. taking an only slightly wandering path around the university home landed us in a very scary area. i have a wierd relation to risk - i just don't' feel it walking around with anyone else. i feel fairly capable of taking people on, so with company i have to be safe? although tony repeatedly told me i was on my own if someone tried to mug me.... ha. so when we were on a deserted street reminiscent of old market street in Chicago and Tony started getting nervous i was a little surprised. The hill dropped away and a building half-destroyed and small gang of boys (looked like they were harmlessly employed, but still) convinced even me we should start walking away, and faster.... probably the smart thing to do.