Istanbul rather easily achieved, 20 euros and maybe 4 minutes longer in customs lines then into paris, but very painless in ataturk airport. the approach to the city was snuck up over the water and just a glimpse of hills and hills of tightly packed urban houses. The taxi ride was similarly both informative and no, being taken by the seashore (with happy people walking along!) and having vision cut off by the first hills. already older more intact walls then rome possesses appeared though, and the taxi drivers only comment was to point out the large fish market. hostel cute and little, enormous windows and free internet, what more could you ask. i was able to wander by myself for an hour or so right away, enjoyed the setting sun - last sun i'd see for 5 days, so it goes.... very easy path of least resistance up the main tourist street, hostel 2 minutes from the Hagia Sofia and the beautiful Blue Mosque (pictured) the main tourist draws.... trying to get off the main street i headed down a precipitous hill and realized the only people i saw were males. looped around the block back to the heckler-ful but reassuringly mixed-gender main drag, past jewelery and upholstery sweatshops, and gem shops... interesting. located someplace to eat and returned with tony. the meal was great, lovingly prepared on a grill in sight, wierd tomato candle decor, so it goes. a charming 'tradition' that we nevertheless didn't have repeated while there was having the host pour out parfume on our hands and a towel to wipe. did make my hands reek all night.
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